Wind Chimes Go Great With Gardening

Filed under:The Gardening Way — posted on July 29, 2007 @ 6:17 pm

What could be more relaxing than gardening on a nice summer
morning? Listening to your wind chime while you garden! Wind
chimes are not only fun to look at but they add much more to
your garden then just visual appeal.

Wind chimes have tones and vibrations that soothe and calm the
mind helping to release all your stress. When you dig in the
garden and connect with the earth, listening to your chimes
tinkle in the breeze can help you also connect with your inner
spirit. Chimes have been used for much more than just decoration
for centuries. In fact, wind chimes are used in many Feng Shui
cures. You can hang your chimes inside as well as outside, metal
chimes are best for North, Northwest and West while wood chimes
are best for South, Southeast and East. The number of rods can
be associated with the cure you want. Use 4, 6, 7, 8 or 18 rods
for luck and 5 rods to reject bad energy. Use bamboo for outside.

Of course, you should pick chimes that decorate your porch or
garden area to your liking. There’s plenty of styles and
materials to choose from. I favor the chimes with a stained
glass decoration on top that comes in all kinds of whimsical
styles. If you are more traditional, you might go for a simple
bamboo chime with an Asian flair. You can even get chimes that
are hand tuned if you are really into the sound quality of your
wind chime.

Hanging your wind chimes is easy. To hang from the top of your
porch, you can use a simple C shaped hook that screws into the
ceiling. Any type hook can be used as long as it is strong
enough to support your wind chime. Be sure you hang it in an
area where it’s freedom of movement is not obstructed by
anything. You can also buy fancy hangers that screw in or that
stick up from the ground. When hanging your chime, try to pick a
place that will not get a strong wind – this way you can be sure
your chime does not blow off and break.

So, the next time that you get out into the garden, make sure
that you hang out some wind chimes so that you can add a new
level to your gardening experience!

Top 10 Mistakes When Buying Seafood

Filed under:The Gardening Way — posted on July 18, 2007 @ 6:42 pm

Top 10 mistakes when buying seafood

The best way to break down the mistakes that are done when
buying seafood is to look at each type of seafood and the
characteristics it should have when you purchase it. You should
buy high quality seafood whether it is fresh or frozen and these
tips on what to look for to keep you from making the top 10
mistakes when buying seafood.

When you go to buy fresh whole fish do not buy it if the
appearance of the fish is not bright and shiny, scales are not
intact and adhere to the skin. If the eyes have turned pink,
cloudy and sunken, except with small eyes fish like salmon.
Gills should not have any type of slime coating or be green or
brown in color. Fish should not have a fishy odor.

When you buy fresh whole fish it should be bright, shiny, and
most of the scales should be intact and adhere tightly to the
skin. Every fish has markings and colors that will fade and be
less pronounced as the fish loses its freshness. The eyes should
be bright, clear, and full and sometimes protrude according to
the species. The color of the gills fade over time, turning from
bright red to pink, grey and then to a green or brown color so
the brighter red the more fresh. Fish that is fresh will have
practically no odor at all, the fishy smell happens over time.

When buying fresh fish filets and steaks do not purchasing if
the fishy odor is strong, there are signs of browning or drying
around the edges of the filets, if plastic wrapping is not
tight, it if there is plenty of space between the fish and the
wrapping, and if there is any liquid in the packaging.

Fresh fish filets and steaks odor should be fresh and mild. The
flesh should be moist, firm, elastic and have a fresh cut
appearance.

When you buy frozen seafood do not buy if it is not frozen
solid, if there is any discoloration or any type of drying which
can mean freezer burn, if there is an odor. Do not buy any
frozen seafood product that has ice crystals or water stains.

Frozen seafood should only be purchased if it is frozen solid
and if there is no discoloration and if there is an odor it
should be fresh and mild. The wrapping should be moist and vapor
proof and should fit around your seafood closely and not damaged
in any form. If you notice water stains or ice crystals, the
seafood has thawed and been re-frozen. Always look for an
expiration date.

When you are purchasing any seafood product fresher is always
better. When you buy frozen talk with the person that is in
charge of the seafood and learn how the seafood was frozen. If
it was “flash frozen” it may in fact be better than fresh. The
time it takes to get quality fresh seafood to your store will
give the seafood time to age. Flash frozen is when the seafood
is frozen within just a few hours of harvesting to ensure the
quality that you can buy.

House Plans – Research Is Key

Filed under:The Gardening Way — posted on July 10, 2007 @ 7:45 am

When you think about building your new home consider your needs and your lifestyle. If you are newlyweds your choices will be different from a couple who is ready to retire and is looking for a smaller home. The lot may affect the type of house and its placement.

If your lifestyle is such that you plan to entertain frequently, you might want to consider including a formal dining and living area that is separated from the family’s living area. If you just plan on having a couple of friends over for a dinner and conversation, then you might want to eliminate the formal dining area and create a simple dining area that can be used by your family and your guests.

Is your lot large enough to allow you to build your house and still be able to expand in the future? Will you need an extra room for guests or extra living space for aging parents or future additions to your family? It is imperative that you keep all of these possible concerns as you choose your lot and your house plan.

When choosing a house plan you will want to keep your privacy needs in mind. If you work from home, you will want privacy, space away from the main activity of the home so that you can work effectively. You could have a workroom or a hobby room where you and your family can gather together. The placement of your windows could also affect your privacy. You certainly don’t want your neighbors to be able to peer in at you. Window treatments and privacy hedges or fences if appropriate will alleviate some those concerns.

Now that you have an idea of what your house might look like, it’s time to think about the lot. I am sure you have a really good idea of what you want your new home to look like but if it doesn’t fit on the lot you will have a serious problems. It is recommended that you purchase your lot before you look at plans for your home.

Some other things that you will need to consider are whether or not there is bedrock under the soil. Bedrock and clays will make excavation for the foundation difficult.

Pay attention to the weather and your house. Will your windows be placed for maximum exposure to morning and evening sun? The sun and wind can affect heating and/or air conditioning costs depending in which direction the slope is facing. Check the surrounding rivers and streams as related to your lot. If they overflow, how will it affect your property?

If you live in the flood plains be sure to find out if you can get flood insurance. If not, you may want to reconsider the place where you will build your home. Check the site for ditches or drainage issues. Soil drainage can be another serious problem as it can cause water seepage into the foundation. This can cause structural issues such as cracks and holes in the foundation.

The type of soil could also affect the foundation. Some clay soils, shrink when dry and expand when wet. This could cause cracks and make it difficult to maintain a dry basement.

Finally, check your zoning laws to be sure the type of house you want to build is within their specifications. If expansion is permissible and how much you will actually be able to do. The zoning commission also governs the placement of your home on the site. You want to keep well within their regulations.

Look at lots on which to build your new home. Check out the landscaping. Does the soil allow for proper drainage? Will you be able to plant privacy hedges or put up a privacy fence? How and where does the sun hit the lot? If you want maximum light exposure you may want to place your house to get that. The type of house you want to build could affect where on the lot your house will sit. The size of the lot will affect the type of house that you will be put on it.

Also check out the neighborhood where you want to build your home, does the style you have chosen mesh with others in the area. Will the house fit on the lot? Will the soil support the foundation? Get organized. Keep any and all information about your plans, your lot, and anything regarding your home in one place. Always check with the zoning board regarding your plans. You have many decisions to make good luck!

(c) www.1st-4-house-plans.com

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About The Author

Martin Smith is a successful freelance writer providing advice for home buyers and consumers on purchasing a variety of Dream Home which includes Cottage Plans, Beach House Plans, and more! His numerous articles provide a wonderfully researched resource of interesting and relevant information. http://www.1st-4-house-plans.com.

Winter Gardening in Bucks County

Filed under:The Gardening Way — posted on July 4, 2007 @ 2:11 am

I look forward each day during the winter. To some, lamenting
the past days of fall with its bright foliage in the landscape,
and feeling down that the dull days of winter are here. For me I
have grown to appreciate each day and look forward to interests
in landscapes that are there knowing that many dazzling displays
can be found by careful observation. The days are short and the
nights are long here in Bucks County. Yet growing plants and
enjoying plants are year round activities that bring many
quality hours of enjoyment. Watering plants can be be on your
list of things to do. Make it a point to get out and check on
your plants. The ground may not be frozen and plants still use
water. If the ground is not frozen you can still water if the
ground will accept the water. Most plants are dormant so the
amount of watering is not as high as in the hotter seasons.
Evergreens lose water through their needles in the winter. So if
one keeps watering as long as possible into the winter,
seedlings and plants will suffer less stress. Winter drying of
evergreens is a major stress factor in overwintering. Snow and
ice on your plants can be problematic. Tall thin plants are not
as sturdy a plant. They tend to bend under snow loads and may
require staking later to train them strait. If your small plants
have a light amount of snow covering them you may ease the snow
burden by lightly sweeping the snow with a broom. Don’t shake
them, they are like babies … they get shaken baby syndrome. If
snow or ice is frozen to the branches, allow it to melt rather
than attempting to correct. If any branches are broken, you
probably don’t need to do anything unless there is a split in
the trunk. If the breakage of the plant is sever, the seedling
or liner should be discarded. The labor to correct is not worth
the value of the plant. Also a poor quality seedling will
probably be a poor quality mature plant. There is a market for
such plants however, we have had many customers who want, ”
Charley Brown Trees” or stunted trees for unusual customer
needs. Warm spells in the winter occur. Suddenly, there can be
days of warmer temperatures. This should not be a problem. When
a warm spell occurs, get out and use some shoe leather and wear
out those leather gloves. Its a great to have a break in mid
winter and you can prepare for spring. If you have covering on
or over the plants, you may need to ventilate. We normally open
the doors to our greenhouses and this is usually all that is
necessary. Cold frame temps may rise so ventilation will be
helpful. Close up as nightfall arrives as the temperature will
fall. Note that when sunlight intensity is high, plant tissues
become active. Water loss at this time can’t be replaced if the
root are frozen. This is called plant desiccation. Also if there
many freeze-thaw cycles, the crown of the plant will be heaved
up exposing the roots. Root systems have a lower tolerance to
temperature extremes and can killed by freezing low
temperatures.A common way to prevent desiccation is to screen
plants in exposed areas with Burlap . Varmint control is
important in the winter. Mice and rabbits feed constantly .
Their teeth grow constantly and they love to chew on tender
plants. We spread rat and mice bait about every two to threes
weeks as long as we see it being consumed. Try and place the
baits in a place where its easy to monitor, dry, and accessible
only to the varmints. When the snow gets deep mice will feed up
higher on the plants. They don’t like to dig in the snow for
food. They take the easy to reach food first. Thus tracks in the
snow are an important sign to watch for. Mouse damage is usually
not correctable. You may not see root feeding damage to stock
till spring, so over baiting is the best solution. Care should
be taken that the baits are only available to the target
varmint. Viburnums are the most attractive, versatile, adaptable
shrubs for any landscape. They can be used as hedges or screens
and in mixed perennial/shrub borders. They can also stand alone
as specimen plants. They usually take the form of shrubs, but
some species can become small ornamental trees. They range in
size from the Dwarf American Cranberry bush at 2 feet tall by 2
feet wide, to the Siebold at over 15 feet tall. We feel that
Viburnums are plants that have great winter interest. All
Viburnums have white to pink flowers in the spring. The foliage
is large, attractive and often textured leaves. Some viburnums
have fragrant flowers that are produced in snowball shaped
clusters in April. Their flower clusters can consist of pink
buds, which develop into white flowers. Some fruits are red and
turn black with age usually bitter tasting. Leaves can be
glossy, dark green and turn a burgundy color in the fall.
Midsummer berries are an important food source for birds.
Viburnums have colorful red to purple leaves. Some viburnums can
become medium-size trees, especially if they are pruned.
Viburnums excel as specimen plants or as anchors in mixed
borders. You won’t find a more versatile group of shrubs for
hedges or for massing in groups, since viburnums hold their own
in every season. Some viburnums, such as Prague viburnum
‘Pragense’, are evergreen. Others, such as leather leaf
viburnum, are semi-evergreen in colder climates, losing their
leaves when temperatures dip below 10 degrees. The great feature
of Viburnums is that they are adaptable. While they would like
full sun and moderately watered, well-drained rich soils, they
will grow very well in part shade, and in clay soils. Diseases
and pests rarely attack them and they don’t tend to have to be
spayed. My kids have run over them with brush hogs and they
survived. Their fibrous root system makes them transplant
easily. In your search for a good, hardy shrub with winter
interest consider the Viburnum family.

Viburnums have long been popular garden plants, known for their
white, sometimes fragrant spring flowers, and their fall color.
But it’s the Asian viburnums that have so far been most
noteworthy. Perhaps the most liked viburnums are the Burkwood
viburnum (Viburnum x burkwoodii), and the Korean spice viburnum
(V. carlesii), both of which fill your landscape with pleasant
odors in the spring. Also popular is the doublefile viburnum (V.
plicatum f. tomentosum), valued for its layered habit, fall
foliage, and clusters of red fruits. Viburnum acerifolium
(Maple-leafed viburnum) Although I wouldn’t plant a landscape
without viburnums, I have a special fondness for several of our
native viburnums. They may not provide the great flower
fragrance of their Asian counterparts, but I love them not only
for their rich fall colors ,but for that fact they help attract
and feed so many of our wild birds that liven up our landscape
during the long winter. In addition, several are great for urban
conditions. They require only corrective pruning, and seldom
commonly suffer from pests or diseases. I would be hard pressed
to say which viburnum I would choose if I could only have one.
Viburnums are moist woodland plants. In nature they are found
along steam banks from Long Island to Florida. When you come to
our 5275 West Swamp Rd. location ask us to show some in their
native habitat that we found along our stream bank. These plants
perform well under normal landscape conditions. I especially
like the floral display in the spring and these viburnums that
bear fruit in the fall. Winterthur has great red leaves and
abundant fruit in the fall. This cultivar needs a cross
pollinator such as viburnum nudum. If you want things to do in
the winter this is when I cut back our viburnums. Pressing
issues of the other seasons always leaves my viburnums to stand
alone untouched. It is mid winter and I always enjoy trimming
back these plants then. I see all the nests that the birds have
built and can work without disturbing their families. It seems
to me that it is easier to cut back and trim now for I always
feel bad in the summer when I trim out green foliage. When
trimming foliage I always guilty cutting greens off of the
plants. Wintertime frees me from those demons. You can see more
out plants at the following web site HTTP://www.seedlingsrus.com

You Take The Vacation - Not Your Garden

Filed under:The Gardening Way — posted on July 2, 2007 @ 10:06 pm

If you are planning to go on vacation, there are some
important tasks that you really must undertake to ensure
that your garden continues to maintain that well cared
for condition which you constantly strive for.

After all, because you have spent so much of your time
during the rest of the year trying to achieve perfection,
it would be a great pity if some of that good work were
to be undone.

You do deserve that well earned vacation however, so I put
it to you that you will enjoy the break even more, in the
knowledge that you will not be returning home to any
unpleasant surprises.

Here are a few simple steps that I would advise you to take
to help to make sure that all remains well.

Just how much you need to plan in advance depends entirely
on how long that you intend to be away from home.

Even if you are only going away for a week or just over it,
I strongly recommend that you make the time to attend to
those basic garden chores the day before you leave.

For example, I always mow the lawn, deadhead all my flowers,
and I make a point of moving any house plants that I might
have temporarily placed outdoors to blossom, back indoors.

Naturally I make sure that they are watered thoroughly.

If you intend to be away from home for two consecutive weeks
or longer, I suggest that you make some provision well ahead
of the time, especially for the care of the lawn.

Perhaps you know a reliable teenager looking for some extra
money in your neighborhood. If you do, strike a deal with him
to cut the lawn once a week during your absence.

Whether he uses his lawn mower or yours though, do make sure
that he knows to cut the lawn at the highest setting on the
mower, which will usually be about three inches or so.

If you have an exceptionally large area of lawn however, or
you intend to be away from home for a much longer period, you
would probably be best to hire a professional Gardener, or a
Garden Maintenance Company to attend to this. (funds
permitting of course)

The day before you leave, preferably in the late morning,
prune just recently opened blossoms, taking long stems with
the cut flowers.
I suggest that you also carry a container of water and water
thoroughly.

On the same day prune flower buds also, as the blossoms will
have most likely have opened and wilted during your absence.

Check your annuals and perennials for blighted foliage,
removing any discolored leaves.

Your house plants will also need to be cared for as well while you are away. If you intend a long break, then you really
should arrange for someone to attend to their needs if at all
possible.

A good friend or neighbor will most likely be more than willing
to oblige, especially if you offer to return the favor.

Your plants should be fine though, if you are only going away for a few days or so.

However if you have a situation where you simply cannot call on
anybody to assist, or perhaps you do not want to impose on
anybody, then I have outlined a few useful steps that you can
take, particularly if you are intending to be absent for an
extended time.

Move all those plants that are summering outdoors back inside,
but place them in a shaded area first.
Do this during the week before you leave, so as to let them
acclimatize to the change in conditions.

Then bring them indoors, and place them in a spot where they
will be most likely to get the benefit of indirect sunshine.
In the morning before you depart, spread sheets of newspaper
on the floor of the room where your plants are situated.

Water all your plants thoroughly, (whether they need it or not),
and then place them on the newspaper sheets.

Place four large bowls of water around the plants, and cover
them with a large white sheet.
Make sure that the sheet drapes down beyond the plants onto
the newspaper.

This will help to keep your plants moist and healthy.

Remember that the first priority is to have a fantastic
vacation.

If you are like me however, you will enjoy it all the more,
because you know that you have taken the time to make sure
that your cherished garden and house plants have been well
looked after.

Marie K Fisher is an avid gardening enthusiast with a passion
for exotic flowers and wonderful colors. She is a regular
contributor to Garden Center Showplace a leading online Garden
Center.
For more details of the superb range of products offered, and
also more Featured Articles And Tips on Gardening visit
http://www.gardencentershowplace.com

The Best Flowers For Spring

Filed under:The Gardening Way — posted on July 1, 2007 @ 5:32 am

After a long, cold winter, you are probably anxious for the
first signs of spring. Springtime automatically brings thoughts
of flowers. Choosing the best flowers for spring can be
difficult and it is often confusing. Perhaps the most effective
way to ensure spring flowers that bloom each year is to plant
bulbs in the fall to mid-winter. There are of course flowering
plants that you can purchase from your local nursery, but you
will want to make sure any chance of freezing weather has passed
before planting and in many areas of the country, spring does
not arrive until late in the season and by that time you will
want to plants flowers in anticipation of summer. You always
have the option of purchasing bulbs that have been grown in pots
over the winter and are in stock in most garden centers
beginning in the late winter months. Here are a few choices of
flowering plants that are suitable to plant now and will produce
early spring flower:

Winter Aconite, or Eranthis hyemalis, will give you yellow
flowers approximately three inches in height and resemble common
buttercups. These particular bulbs may begin to flower as early
as January if you live in a warm area and you will get the best
results if you plant them in masses as they grow low to the
ground.

Glory Of The Snow, or Chionodoxa luciliare, produce flowers that
are bright blue with a white center. The plants will grow
between six and ten inches tall, making this particular plant
very handy for walkways, borders, and rock gardens. You may also
be able to find white/pink varieties depending on the area in
which you live

Spring Snowflake, or leucojum vernum, give you bell-shaped
flowers that droop from the green part of the plant. These
plants will be six to twelve inches in height and are white in
color with small green spots on the ends of the petals. You will
get the best results if you plant them in clumps and you can
expect to see blooms in late February to early March. As with
any other springtime bulb, they are best planted in the fall but
you can plant in the mid to late winter if you purchase potted
bulbs that have already begun the growing cycle.

Netted Iris, or iris reticulate, are wonderfully scented and are
most commonly purple in color, although you can also find light
blue and white irises in many areas. Irises are one of the
earliest blooming plants and you can expect a beautiful display
of flowers in early March. As with any other type of bulb, after
several growing seasons you will have to thin the bulbs from
time to time, as they tend to reproduce rapidly and could
actually begin to stunt the growth of the plants due to
over-crowding

Selecting The Right Bonsai Pots Is Very Important

Filed under:The Gardening Way — posted on June 30, 2007 @ 9:16 am

As with all types of plant pots, Bonsai pots are available in a
huge array of sizes, shapes and colours but making sure you
select the correct pot for your Bonsai tree can make the
difference between a good looking Bonsai and an incredible
looking Bonsai. Be warned, though, the pot you pick can have
either positive or detrimental effects to the growth of your
beloved Bonsai tree.

What type of Bonsai pots should I be considering?

Firstly, if you have a juvenile Bonsai that is still growing
quite rapidly you will need to consider several training pots
before you decide on a final show pot to exhibit your Bonsai.
However, when selecting a Bonsai pot you should never pick one
that means you will need to drastically trim the roots. If you
do want to reduce the size of your pot or the roots then you
need to take it in gradual steps, moving down a pot size at a
time before eventually reaching the size you want.

Make sure the pot you are considering has very good drainage and
is entirely frost proof, this will help keep your Bonsai safe
and healthy all year round whether it is kept indoors or
outdoors. If you are selecting a glazed pot, be sure that only
the outside of the pot is actually glazed, because the Bonsai
will need the rough surface on the inside for the roots to grab
onto and establish themselves.

What pot for what tree?

The type of pot you should buy is indicated by the kind of tree
you are growing as well as the style you want. Conifers lend
themselves brilliantly to naturally coloured, unglazed pots
whereas deciduous trees look good in glazed or unglazed and in
just about any colours. Experiment a little to find the right
pot for you, and especially consider pastel colours for your
deciduous trees or a bright coloured pot for a flowering tree.

Also, consider how much room the roots will need for your
particular choice of tree. Cascading trees will require a deep
pot with plenty of room for the roots to grow down but also so
the branches can hang over the side without draping on the floor.

If you have a heavily glazed pot, remember that the colour of
the glaze will age and ware off slightly over it’s lifetime and
many people wipe the glaze with French polish in order to speed
the process up giving your glazed pot a slightly more natural
and aged feel.

Ideas On How To Use Container Gardening To Decorate Your House And Garden

Filed under:The Gardening Way — posted on June 26, 2007 @ 11:37 pm

Nearly every house and garden presents numerous attractive
settings for container plants. Suburban gardens, estates, small
city backyards, and summer cottages–all can be enhanced by this
type of gardening. A few of the seemingly endless possibilities
include entranceways, steps, courtyards, walls, rooftops,
balconies, patios, breezeways, lawns, driveways, walks,
sundecks, windowsills, porches, summer houses, even tree stumps
can be utilized.

Let us start with the entrance, a focal point for every house. A
simple arrangement consists of similar container plants at each
side of the doorway. If the house is informal, painted tubs will
make a cheerful note, while urns or ornamental pots are more
appropriate if the architecture is formal. The arrangement,
however, need not be symmetrical, since a single container at
either side, particularly if the doorway is off-center, is
pleasing. A large specimen can be balanced by a grouping of
small pots, and various other interesting combinations can be
worked out. Sometimes, the front entranceway can qualify as an
outdoor place for house plants, but be sure they are not exposed
to strong sun and wind.

Unexpected areas like side and rear entrances can also serve as
backgrounds for pot plants in casual groupings. For sunny steps,
consider tubs of petunias, or dwarf dahlias, or boxes of herbs
to be used in cooking. Tuberous begonias, fuchsias, patient
Lucy, and fragrant nicotiana solve the problem of what to grow
in shade.

Porches or verandas, traditional or contemporary in style, offer
numerous settings for pots, window boxes, and hanging baskets.
Indeed, the entire container garden can be concentrated there so
that plants can be easily cared for. If the porch is open on
three sides, it will afford exposures to suit a variety of
specimens.

The patio or terrace, beside or beyond the house, where family
and friends gather to eat or relax, is an ideal location. If it
is formal, select clipped evergreens and arrange pots in
symmetrical rows, perhaps lined up against the house or along
the edge of the terrace. If the site is informal, make casual
groupings of one or two tall plants with smaller ones in front.
Either way, allow for a few large plants in tubs or boxes for
accent and height.

Container plants may line walks and paths that lead to the
house, garage, or garden. They can rest on paved areas along
fences and walls and on driveways where they are not in the way.
If the driveway adjoins the foundation of the house, plant
containers may be placed there.

Tops of garden or terrace walls are ideal places, too. Put small
pots and boxes on tall, narrow walls and large containers on
low, broad surfaces. Hanging plants of ivy geraniums in the sun
and fuchsias in the shade will cascade from walls, as they do in
the patios of Spain, Portugal, and Italy. On Rhodes, I recall a
fifteen-foot wall topped with a row of thirty gleaming green tin
cans full of roses and other flowers.

Think of what you can do with rooftops and sundecks where
considerable space is usually available. Here sun-loving plants,
like geraniums, most annuals, cacti, and succulents can be
grown, but, again, include large specimens for height to give a
garden feeling. A few large boxes and planters for trees and
shrubs are sufficient but be sure to include some evergreens for
year-round green.

Many gardeners like to insert container plants in flower borders
to introduce unusual specimens, such as tropicals in the North.
Large tubs can be set at the corners and small pots may be
scattered among the permanent flowering plants. One gardener
keeps a supply of potted pink Fiat Enchantress geraniums on hand
to fill bare spots in her wide borders, moving them about as
needed. Most of the geraniums are in four-inch clay pots, but
there are larger specimens for the center of each grouping. Make
sure their secure, sink pots a few inches into the ground.

You can always dress up the lamp post in your yard with
container plants at the base or you can suspend a hanging basket
of lantana, perhaps from the top. Ivy geraniums in an
old-fashioned black kettle are nice for the base. Bare posts
that support sectional roofs over patios or paved surfaces of
contemporary houses look more attractive if potted plants are
clustered around the bases or permanent boxes for plants are
built there. Try planting climbing ivy in a pot and train it to
climb the posts.

Novelty containers–donkey carts, wheelbarrows, and spinning
wheels–can be fun in some places, but, of course, such planters
must not be overdone. Usually they are set on lawns, on a
terrace or beside a gate or doorway. (If you life in a
neighborhood that has a house owners association check with them
first to see if this is allowed). Steps leading to a driveway or
street or to different levels in a garden can be emphasized with
pot plants. A few can be arranged at the top or at the base of
the stairs. And, there are other possibilities. Tree trunks cut
to the ground or left a few feet high make good pedestals for
large containers. In fact, this can be a solution to the problem
of what to do with a trunk too expensive to remove. If you have
a tree with heavy shade, why not construct a pretty sitting area
around it and decorate the space with containers of coleus, wax
and other begonias, caladiums, ferns and other shade-tolerant
plants.

These are just a few ideas for using container plants around
your house and garden. Use your imagination and have fun. Happy
Gardening!

Copyright © 2006 Mary Hanna All Rights Reserved.

Planning A Container Water Gardens For Any Yard

Filed under:The Gardening Way — posted on June 15, 2007 @ 8:02 pm

I have an admission to make. I’m a natural born swamp-child. To me, there are few things in this world more beautiful than the marshy edges where pond meets woods and creates the perfect growing environment for cattails, water-lilies, lotus, cabomba and lush green ferns.

Alas, it has been my misfortune to live in the middle of the city, in rented apartments with postage stamps for yards. For years, I lusted after large, spacious backyards with room to dig your own pond. I read articles on building water gardens, koi ponds, and backyard fountains and sighed with envy. Then I discovered a simple fact – all it takes to create a water garden is a sunny spot that’s big enough for a pot of water.

It’s no more difficult to grow a water garden in a container than it is to grow any other container gardens. If you have a sunny spot – at the very least 6 hours of full sun daily throughout the summer – you can create a water garden. Your water garden can be as simple as a large tub with a few submerged plants, or as elaborate as several arranged container gardens with rocks and a fountain powered by a circulating pump. If you’d like to try your hand at creating a simple container water garden, you’ll find everything you need at a local home supply store like Home Depot.

Planning a Container Water Garden
Location is the single most important factor in planning your water garden. Your space can be as small as a single square yard, but it MUST receive plenty of sun throughout the day. Think twice about locating a water garden of any sort beneath an overhanging tree. The leaves that fall will decay in the water and can foul it. If you’re building an actual pond, or using a large container like a swimming pool, check local ordinances regarding safety.

The plants that you choose should be suited to the container that you’re using. Choose plants that are hardy for your planting zone. There are four basic kinds of water plants:

Floating water plants – like water hyacinth and cabomba – require no planting at all. They float on the surface of the water with their roots trailing to absorb nutrients.

Surface Plants – like water lilies, lotus and floating yellow heart rooted in the pond’s bottom (or in this case, in a submerged pot), and put out leaves on long stems to float on the surface of the water.

Submerged plants – grow completely underwater, and seldom show their leaves above the surface. They help maintain the balance of nitrogen and other nutrients, and will require thinning to keep them in check.

Marginal or Bog plants – grow at the edges of ponds in the wild. They like to keep their feet wet, so to speak – with their roots and lower parts of their stems underwater. Dwarf cattails, black taro and sweet flag are examples of marginal plants.

When choosing plants for your container water garden, keep in mind the size of your container. Don’t overcrowd your garden – the rule of thumb is that your plants should cover no more than 2/3 of the surface of the water.

About the Author

This article courtesy of http://www.florists-guide.net

Five Wall Décor Solutions for Your Child’s Bedroom

Filed under:The Gardening Way — posted on June 11, 2007 @ 5:27 am

Is it time to decorate your child’s bedroom and you find yourself staring at a blank wall? Walls are the perfect canvas for creativity. Here are five wall décor solutions to give you a head start on your planning.

Paint

It may sound a little too simple, but using paint in creative ways can create a dramatic effect on walls. Whether you are choosing subtle pastels or bold colors, have fun with your design. Paint each wall with a different color. Experiment with stripes and other geometric shapes. Visit your local home improvement or craft store where you will find a great variety of stencils and faux finish kits.

Framed Art

Placing posters and other artwork in frames can create a sophisticated or fun look. Posters and prints can be purchased at most retail stores. Want to portray a personal touch? Use your child’s artwork or family photographs. Involve your child by purchasing a disposable camera for them to take their own pictures. Utilize home imaging software to enhance and add effects your child will love! Another benefit of framed art is it can easily be changed to create a new look.

Wall Stick-Ups

A less permanent solution to decorating your child’s walls is using wall stick-ups. These fun wallpaper-like cutouts are a simple low-cost solution. Designs can be found to fit most any theme, from castles to cartoon characters. While some products require using water, most available today are peel-and-stick.

Shelves

Not only do shelves spice up a wall by adding a third dimension, they create a storage solution for your child’s gadgets and gizmos. There is a great variety of shelving options available on the market to day.

Bulletin Boards

They aren’t just cork board and push pins anymore! Bulletin boards come in all sorts of sizes, shapes, and materials. Your child can pin up pictures of friends, study reminders, and more. Many bulletin boards come with additional features such as built-in photo frames. Better yet, make one with your child by using cardboard and fabric. Tie ribbon tightly around the board as a push pin alternative!

About The Author

Melissa A. Boyd is the creator of themes4kids.com, a comprehensive resource for decorating kid’s bedrooms and baby nurseries. You will find bedroom themes, tips, articles, and much more! You can reach Melissa at mailto:mboyd@themesforkids.com Visit http://www.themesforkids.com today!


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