Students Of Success

Crystal like granite countertops and spa type bathrooms built with natural stone are all the rage in home interiors, but not surprisingly it will lose its investment value fast if not properly maintained.

Up to now, only ammonia based cleaners were the granite cleaning choice outside of soap and water for homeowners, regardless of the fact that these products in reality damage natural stone.

Marble Master’s stone cleaning product line safely cleans and conditions countertops, floors and wall surrounds made of granite, marble, travertine and other natural stone. For more information, visit www.marblemasteruk.com

“Ammonia-based products remove the seal of natural stone, allowing stains to penetrate the surface and set more easily,” said Edward Green, Technical Director of Marble Master. “The damage caused by these products increases the chance that the stone will have to be refurbished or replaced, which is a costly undertaking.”

Natural stone is hard-wearing, but still needs appropriate care to continue its inherent beauty. When treated correctly, it is a low maintenance surface that will hold its gleam longer than any other surface known to man, and can enhance the value of your home.

Marble Master’s set of non ammoniated, inexpensive products features its Daily Cleaner, Daily Cleaner Wipes, Polish/Protector, Stone Soap and Penetrating Sealers. The line protects and extends the life of stone countertops and gives customers high quality cleaning power. The line is non toxic, safe on all food preparation surfaces, features a streak-free formula and is easy to use.

Marble Master Products are also effective when used on natural quartz surfaces and engineered stone and can be safely used on ceramics or porcelain tile and grout. This exclusive product line, which contains the highest grade of quality ingredients, is user friendly, non toxic and safe for the environment.

The Marble Master Stone Care System is specially formulated and developed by stone care professionals with more than 40 years of experience in the natural stone industry. For more information or to purchase the products, visit www.marblemasteruk.com or call 020 8807 8889.

You may publish this article in your ezine, newsletter on your web site as long as the byline is included and the article is included in it’s entirety. I also ask that you activate any html links found in the article and in the byline. Please send a courtesy link or email where you publish to: support@marblemasteruk.com

Website: http://www.marblemasteruk.com

About The Author

Edward Green owns and operates the highly successful Marble Master Ltd company. Marble Master specializes in Restoration and Refinishing of all types of natural stone and consultancy services to Architects, Restoration Companies and Interior Designers.

(ARA) - Toile, the subtly elegant printing technique that tells stories in engraving-like detail, traveled a fascinating history of its own to become the enduring favorite of designers, decorators and homeowners everywhere.

Toile, pronounced twal, is an abbreviation of toile de Jouy. The name comes from Jouy-en-Josas, France, where the first plant to commercially produce this type of printing was established in 1760. The initial toile was a monotone, one-color print, rendered in intricate, engraving-like detail on a white or cream-colored background.

Typically, the images were scenes that told a story. Drawings might retell a myth about Roman gods, or chronicle ships’ sailing adventures, or simply depict days in the life of a French farming family.

The triumph of toile as today’s decorative darling is far from simple, however. When Christopher-Philippe Oberkampf opened a print shop in France in 1760, reverse images for toile prints were carved into wooden blocks. Ink was applied to the blocks and then transferred by hand to un-dyed cotton. Only the rich and the royal, including Louis XVI, could afford the results of this painstaking process.

Later, in a stunning example of industrial espionage, Oberkampf discovered in England the secrets of etching designs onto a copper-plate roller. He and his brothers wrote the directions for this process on cotton percale fabric, using an alum solution tinted with red dye, and then dipped the fabric in vinegar to render the writing invisible until after they crossed the Channel. By utilizing their stolen information, the Oberkampfs significantly expanded both their market and their fame. Napoleon himself bestowed on them the Legion of Honor.

Still later, in an unrelated but ironic twist of fate, British troops destroyed Oberkampf’s factory in Jouy-en-Josas. Brokenhearted, the printmaker died shortly afterwards.

Today, toile triumphs, but only the engraving-like quality of the printing method remains true to its original. It is not uncommon for contemporary toiles to be printed in more than one color and appear on a colored background. The themes now encompass just about any subject that strikes a wallpaper or fabric designer’s fancy.

An exotic combination of parrots, pineapples and palm fronds, for example, grace a tropical pattern in the Vintage Tuscany wallpaper and border collection from S.A. Maxwell Co.’s LV Emmert Studio. This theme enhances all design styles, from contemporary to traditional, and is especially well suited to today’s popular bamboo and Oriental furnishings. It exemplifies toile’s ease of use in all settings.

A more traditional toile appears in Winnetka, another collection from L V Emmert. This features a classic repeat of laurel leaves, each underscoring etched renderings of a rooster and other French country scenes. The slightly crackled background adds the patina of age.

In another toile, small birds flutter among flower-bedecked boughs, all in a blue and white pattern that looks as if it were etched in ink on a rich, cream-colored background. This is from Kenilworth, a collection from Maxwell’s Patricia Kent Studio, and was based on a document antique fabric pattern.

Because toile patterns can make an elegant design statement all by themselves or provide a unifying backdrop for other patterns in a room, we include at least one toile in many S.A. Maxwell collections. On wallpaper, the simplicity of images, rendered in the characteristic etched form of a toile, brings pattern to a wall without interfering with other design elements.

From a distance, toiles first emerge as a pleasing overall background design. On closer look, as these subtle images come into focus, they engage the onlooker and become as interesting as an engraved art print. Few other design techniques can accomplish the dual role of creating both an unobtrusive, elegantly discreet setting for all of the objects and furnishings in a room, and, at the same time, lend distinctive, standalone art to that interior.

Try on a toile by locating a retailer that carries the Vintage Tuscany and Winnetka collections from the L V Emmert Studio division of S.A. Maxwell Co., or Kenilworth from Maxwell’s Patricia Kent Studio. To find the retailer nearest you, call 847-932-3700 or visit www.samaxwell.com on the Internet.

Courtesy of ARA Content

About the author:

Courtesy of ARA Content

When spring comes and the ground is thawed, it is time to start
planting your rose garden. Roses have been a cherished
aphrodisiac since biblical times. They have been around for over
3000 years, yet they still hold a particular mystery and
fascination, not to mention the fact that they just look and
smell good!

One of the most important rules of growing roses is to plant the
rose bush in an area that receives around 4 to 6 hours of
sunlight every day.

It is preferable not to plant too many trees or other plants
around the rose bush because most of these are likely to either
mix with the rose or stifle it’s growth. If you are replacing an
old rose bush, approximately 1 1/2 cubic feet of old soil should
be removed, and fresh soil added to replace it. When positioning
your rose in the garden or landscape, consider the growth habit
of the rose.

For example, place climbers and ramblers along fences,
trellises, or next to arches or pergolas. This location offers
them free range of growth, and optimal potential for the
showiest blooms.

Roses also look beautiful in island beds interplanted with
perennials. Miniature roses make great edging plants in front of
their taller cousins. Planted singly, shrub roses make excellent
specimen plants or they can be clustered to make a flowering
hedge. You can also use them to camouflage unsightly garden
objects.

Dig a hole large enough for the root mass and loosen the bottom
of the hole. You should add bone meal, which is a slow acting
source of phosphorus that leads to healthy root growth in the
rose plant.

Then the plant should be placed in the hole carefully and the
hole refilled with soil, covering the roots properly. Before
making the final covering, water the rose plant and let it
absorb the water. After this, water the plant more and mound the
soil about 6 inches high. The dome will keep the stems from
drying out until the plant is rooted. Gradually remove the
excess soil as the leaves open.

Special care should be taken with the planting depth. It varies
according to the climate you live in.

If you live in a colder area, plant a bit deeper and consult
with the people growing roses in your area. If you are buying
potted roses, you should plant them about 1 inch deeper than
their potted level.

The best time to plant roses varies depending on the winter
temperature. Where temperatures don’t drop below -10 degrees F;
either fall or spring planting is satisfactory. If you live in
an area where winter temperatures go below -10 degrees F, spring
planting is preferred. Plants should be planted in a dormant
condition if purchased bare root, but container grown plants may
be planted throughout the growing season.

Spacing of the rose plant is highly influenced by the
temperature. In regions where winters are severe, the rose plant
does not grow as large as in mild climates. Taking this into
consideration, hybrid tea roses should be spaced 1 1/2 to 3 feet
apart. Large vigorous growers, such as hybrid perpetuals need 3
to 5 feet of space, and the climbers need from 8 to 10 feet of
space.

If the winter temperature is below 10 degrees F, roses can grow
healthy if proper care is taken. The gardener must prepare for
that cold, wet reality as he revels in the summer air
conditioning.

In zones 7 and colder, the roses enjoy their last fertilization
of the season by August 15th to limit the emergence of new rose
canes, which will almost certainly not survive the winter.

The ancient herb, Anethum graveolens or Fernleaf dill as it is commonly known, was mentioned some 5,000 years ago in early Egyptian writings. It is the most important culinary herb in Scandinavia, as popular as parsley is in other parts of the world. The word ‘dill’ stems from the Old Norse word dilla, meaning “to lull,” and can be grown indoors and out. The feathery leaves make dill a pretty foliage plant, which is lovely as a green foil for the flowers in your garden. The fragrance of dill on fingers evokes a ‘comfort smell’ for many people as the leaves smell of homemade dill pickles. Old-fashioned dill water or gripe water as it is commonly known (made by infusing crushed dill seeds in hot water), is still used as a remedy for indigestion in adults as well as children.

Dill is an annual but self-seeds so once planted you will have it forever in your garden as long as you allow some of the plants to go to seed. Dill has yellow flowers and grows 1 – 4 ft. (30 – 120 cm) tall outdoors. In pots indoors, dill will be less tall. Grow dill from seed and when thinning, use the seedlings you pull up, as they are tender and delicious. Dried dill leaves are known as ‘dill weed.’ If you need dill seed for your fall pickles, plant some dill in mid-July to ensure you have ripening seed.

Cultivation requirements: grows best in deep, well-drained, fertile, sandy loam, likes compost or manure. Dill must be grown in full sun and watered during dry periods. Dill is easily grown from seed and grows well indoors if grown under fluorescent lights. Hang the lights 6 inches (15 cm) from plants and leave on for 14 hours a day. Dill does not transplant well and it needs a deep pot for its long taproots. Pinch out the tops to prevent flowering and seed setting to keep plants growing longer.

In the garden, dill can be planted with cabbages but not near carrots. In the kitchen, use dill for pickles, cabbage, turnips, cauliflower, in butter on fried or grilled fish, sour cream, meats, stews, cream cheese, dips. Use fresh with green beans, potato dishes, cheese, soups, salads, seafood, sauces, and snipped on vegetable dishes. Sprinkle young dill on broiling lamb, pork chops, or steaks during the last 5 minutes of cooking. Seeds can be sprinkled on toast or crackers with salmon that has been mixed with mayonnaise. Seeds and leaves can be used in fish sauces. Zucchini can be sliced thin and sautéed in olive oil and fresh dill leaves for a nice side dish.

Fresh dill can be kept in the fridge for a few days by submersing the stems in a glass of water. Cover loosely with a plastic bag and make sure the leaves are above the water. Fresh leaves can be frozen in re-seal-able bags and used in dishes. Seeds can be stored in a closed container and used as needed. You can eat the leaves, seed heads, and seeds. Use seeds if cooking for a long time and dill weed if adding at the last minute. Dill can be dried or frozen.

Gwen Nyhus Stewart, B.S.W., M.G., H.T., is an educator, freelance writer, garden consultant, and author of the book The Healing Garden: A Place Of Peace – Gardening For The Soil, Gardening For The Soul and the booklet Non-toxic Alternatives For Everyday Cleaning And Gardening Products. She owns the website Gwen’s Healing Garden where you will find lots of free information about gardening for the soil and gardening for the soul. To find out more about the books and subscribe to her free Newsletter visit www.gwenshealinggarden.ca

Gwen Nyhus Stewart © 2004 – 2006. All rights reserved.

Japanese Barberry (Berberis thunbergii)

Japanese barberry is a compact, shrub with sharp spines, that
commonly grows from two to three feet tall. Its roots are
shallow and tough. The smooth-edged leaves range from oval to
spatulate in shape and are clustered in tight bunches close to
the branches of the plant. There are yellow flowers which bloom
in May and are about one third of an inch wide, solitary or in
small clusters of 2-4 blossoms. The bright-red fruits mature in
mid-summer on the bush and remain into autumn and the winter.
The berries are small and found singly or in clusters. We sell
several cultivars of this species as ornamentals. These plants
have good deer resistance. Small thorns act as an invisable
barrier to deer. Once they encounter this plant, they nearly
have to starve to be found eating them.

All barberries prefers well-drained soils, although they’re
found in wet soils too. Barberies are typically found in
locations of partial sunlight such as a woodland’s edge.
Barberies can survive well under the shade of an oak tree
canopy. It is also found along roadsides, fences, old fields,
and open woods. These plants can and do escape and are invasive.

Japanese barberry was introduced from Japan. It is commonly
planted for ornamental value (its scarlet fruit and autumnal
foliage make it an attractive hedge), as well as for wildlife
and erosion control. It easily naturalizes because its fruit is
often eaten by birds, which subsequently disperse the seeds. The
plant reproduces by seed and creeping roots. Wildlife is known
to eat the seeds and distribute barberies. Branches can root
freely when they touch the ground or get covered by leaveswhich
allows single plants to become quite large.

If your landscape is dominated by a sea of green plants,
barberries will add striking color options. Besides being tough
and deer resistant, they are easy to transplant. Barberries have
much to offer. Barberries are drought resistant, pest free,and
come in many striking colors. Barberries make excellent barrier
plants. Plant next to windows to keep Peeping Toms away. There
are over 20 varieties.

Plant all barberries in partial shade to full sun. A couple of
inches of compost or well aged bark mulch accompanied by 1-2
pounds of a 5-10-5 fertilizer per 100 square feet of garden area
is recomended. Incorporate it it in the soil deeply.

Since some types of barberries can grow to 6′, allow ample
space for the plants. We suggest 3′ spacings for the plants.
Most barberries grow the same width as height. Make the whole at
least twice the size of the root ball. Tamp the soil lightly and
water well after planting. You may have to refill more dirt to
the plant as it settles. Mulch with no more than 1 inch of
organic mulch.

The first month and the first year are critical to surviving.
Most barberries die because of dehydration on transplanting.
Moisted well on tranplanting to encourage deep rooting. Don’t
allow the plants to dry out durring this year. Moisture is
critical during the first year, especially in years like the
past two. Water deeply when required, training the roots to go
deep. Feed four weeks after transplanting using a slow-released
fertilizer, like an 8-8-8 or 12-6-6 at 1 pound per 100 square
feet of bed space. You can see info and articles about plants at
Bill web site http://www.seedlingsrus.com

Many people believe growing their flowers and vegetables organically is healthier for them and their environment. It is natural that you may wish to grow your roses this way also. Using the pesticides and insecticides that are usually considered to go along with growing roses and keeping them healthy can cause many people have to health problems . Maybe you just don’t want those kind of chemicals in your garden and around your children. This article will give some pointers in using more natural methods of growing your roses.

1. First do your homework and find out what type of roses grow well in your area. Buy disease resistant varieties. If you live in an area that has problems with a certain disease, look for a variety that is resistant to it. If you can, purchase organic roses. As they have already been growing with organic methods, this supposes they are “healthier”. and not already loaded with chemicals. Thus they have a stronger immune system. Of course, buy roses with no blemishes on them.

2. Roses like full sun. Make sure they are placed so as to get 6 to 8 hours of sunlight a day.

3. Do not crowd your roses together. Ensure that stress is reduced by providing lots of space for air to circulate around the bush. Take growth of the rose bush into account.

4. Plant your roses in good loamy soil. If your soil is not ideal, then amend it with organic material such as from your compost pile. You do have a compost pile, don’t you? Roses like well draining soil but they don’t want it draining as fast as you might get with sand, so amend your sandy soil. If you have clay soil, an alternative requiring a bit of work is to build a raised bed for your roses much like vegetable gardeners use. It should be at least a foot deep but more is better. Fill it with will amended soil.

5. Keep your watering consistent. Don’t allow your plants to dry out and suffer stress before watering. Roses can need up to 2 inches of water a week. Water every two to three days. This, of course, depends on your area and the type of weather (how much rainfall) you are getting. Also, be careful not to stress the plant by overwatering and depriving the roots of oxgen.

6. Mulch, mulch, mulch! Mulching can reduce the stress on your rose in several ways. It helps to hold in moisture which can be very good in a hot, dry climate. It helps maintain a more even temperature in the root zone. And mulch can smother weeds that could be competition for your lovely roses. As the mulch decomposes, it adds more nutrients to the soil around your plant. Lastly, it can cut down on some of your work.

7. Roses are, what could be considered, heavy feeders. They respond well to fertilizer and should be fertilized on a consistent schedule. Most organic fertilizers are slow-acting and may produce less spectacular results of a non-organic fertilizer. Some organic fertilizers to consider are composted manure, fish emulsion, alfalfa meal, blood meal, and cottonseed meal. If you wish to have a truly organic rose garden, you should ensure that your fertilizer is also organic. Of all these the only one you can be sure is truly organic would be your composted manure if you know exactly where it comes from and how the animals are raised. Perhaps you should consider your own animals raised organically. Chicken manure is very high in nitrogen and some localities allow a small backyard flock. Make sure it is composted thoroughly as chicken manure is very “hot” and will burn your plants.

8. Prune your roses in the early spring. To keep your roses healthy, get out the dead wood, damaged wood and anything that starts to look diseased (and don’t compost these trimmings). Thin out your plant to keep it from being crowded. Don’t allow branches to rub against each other. This will allow air and sunlight to get to the whole plant keeping it healthier.

In part 2 later this week, we will discuss some organic methods of combating specific diseases and pests.

About the Author

Find more Rose Garden articles, as well as part 2 of this article, and other gardening tips for Flower Garden Lovers at our website.

On your next project, will you be using the right hammer for the job? Save yourself some time and be sure to use the right one.

Hammers come in many different shapes and forms. Using the wrong hammer can make a project go sour real quick. It’s a good idea to know what hammers are available and when to use them.

Sledgehammer: One of the big daddy’s of the hammer family. This hammer is probably the biggest hammer you’ll use. This hammer is mainly used on outdoor projects. These hammers are designed to deliver heavy force. To use the big daddy of hammers you’re going to need some strength and good aim. Toes and fast moving sledgehammers do not make a good mix! There are smaller hand sized sledgehammer’s available as well.

Mason’s Hammer: Great for working on brick, concrete or mortar. This hammer is often used for cutting and setting brick. It can be used as a hammer or a chisel when laying brick.

Mallets: Mallets are a great hammer to use when restraint is needed. These hammers are also a good replacement for steel hammers when concerned about marring a surface. Great for driving chisels and for woodworking. The heads or mallets can be made of different materials, usually wooden, rubber or plastic.

Deadblow: Another good hammer to use when concerned about marring a surface. The deadblow is designed to reduce and eliminate bouncing on contact. Most deadblows are made of plastic.

Framing Hammer: A long handled hammer normally used by carpenters to frame houses. It has a milled face to reduce slipping off nails on contact. You can find smooth faced framing hammers as well which are often used for decking. A framing hammer is fairly heavy to drive nails easier.

Claw Hammer: Very similar to a framing hammer but is much lighter. This hammer is a toolbox must and is more of a general use hammer. When using a claw hammer try and grip the base of the handle rather than the head. This will give you more accuracy and leverage.

Tack Hammer: Designed mainly to use on nailing tacks. This hammer is usually small in size and fairly light, about 5 Oz. Most tack hammers are magnetized to pick up tacks that have fallen.

Ball Peen Hammer: This hammer is mainly used for cold chisels and forming metal. As it’s name describes, it has one side with a ball on it and one side with a smooth face. There are many different sizes of ball pein hammers to choose from.

Roofing Hammer: This hammer is really a job specific tool. The face is always milled, often square, and the peen will be either a standard sharp hatchet for trimming cedar shingles or equipped with a tiny razor blade for cutting asphalt shingles.

Drywall Hammer: Used to install drywall. It has a pronounced mushroom shape to the face and an odd, dull hatchet-shaped peen. The peen’s flat shape helps somewhat when beating nails inside corners. The head of the drywall hammer is angled upward for extra reach. The face is lightly milled and sometimes also truncated across the very top of the head for driving nails near the ceiling.

Always wear safety glasses when hammering as broken pieces of nails can become dangerous shrapnel. It also may not be a bad idea to wear gloves on the first day you work with a new hammer. It can really help prevent getting blisters.

You may reprint this article in it’s original form provided the bio line is attached.

About The Author

Christian Krohn

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Sports Memorabilia Collectors are flocking by the droves to buy
Collectible Sports Memorabilia from CollectibleSport. They are
taking advantage of the great selection and value found for most
popular sports, including baseball, basketball, football, golf,
NASCAR, die cast cars, sports bobble heads, and sports hero
posters. This is the perfect marriage of the popularity of
Collectible Sports Memorabilia and the upcoming holiday gift
giving season.

Visitors to CollectibleSport.com have commented on the excellent
layout of the site, the ease of use, the great selection, and
fantastic deals to be found there. Updated items are being
continually added for the sports currently in season.

Collectible Sports Memorabilia that can be found at
CollectibleSport.com allows the connection to a time that we
love to remember regarding a special sporting event. Those
experiences are brought back from our memory with the
Collectible Sports Memorabilia collected for a particular event.

As those special sporting events happen, make sure you capture
that exhilarating feeling. Make sure you do not miss out on
those Collectible Sports Memorabilia items that capture those
special moments. Now is the time to visit CollectibleSport.com
and check the special prices and selection.

The holiday gift giving season is fast approaching. A
Collectible Sports Memorabilia item from CollectibleSport.com
would make the perfect gift!

1.Q.IS NATURAL STONE A GOOD CHOICE FOR HOME USE?

A.YES. Natural stone is a terrific (not to mention beautiful) material to
use in all areas of your home. Knowing the different types of stone,
their finishes and applications will help you to make an informed
decision on which stone is the best for your project.

2.Q.CAN YOU EXPLAIN THE DIFFERENT FINISHES FOR STONE?

A.There are many finishes and options available. Here are the most
widely used:

Polished – A high gloss surface.
Honed – Smooth with squared edges and without a polished
surface.
Tumbled – Lightly tumbled to achieve rounded edges and a
surface that is not as smooth as honed.
Antique Tumbled – Medium tumble edges and surface to achieve a
slight rustic look.
Cobbled or Distressed – Heavily tumbled edges and surface to
achieve an aged or ancient look.
Brushed – Acid washed and wire brushed for a smooth textured
surface.
Flamed – Blow torched for a rough textured surface.

3.Q.DOESN’T STONE STAIN? I DON’T WANT STAINS!

A.YES. All natural stone can stain and etch (a dull spot in a polished or
honed surface), including GRANITES. Sealers DO NOT prevent
staining as they are a moisture barrier only, yet they will help to give
you a small amount of time to wipe up spills. It is nearly impossible to
prevent staining or etching, but serious stains can be almost
completely removed and any etching can be resurfaced if either is
truly bothersome to you. To help keep a perspective on choosing to
use natural stone, remember the following:

1.For centuries, many European countries have used
natural stone from floor to ceiling, inside and out. The
stone becomes stained, cracked, pitted…and that is why
we love it! These characteristics only make it that much
more beautiful. (Only we Americans get uptight about
such things!)
2.Because stone is quarried from the earth and not “man”
made, it is improbable to ever find two exact matching
tiles or matching slabs for that matter. One slab may even
look different from each end of itself. That is also the
beauty because each piece is different, but when pieces
are put together as a whole it is a masterpiece! (Be sure
to purchase enough to complete your project as you may
not be able to get more from the same lot.)
3.Stone is timeless. It does not get dated like the 70’s
Avocado Green and Harvest Gold décor did.
4.Stone will last longer than any of us will. There are
centuries old castles, made of 100% stone and still
standing today!
5.It is a natural resource that will never run out.
6.The more it is used, the faster a “Patina” (light sheen on
the surface) will develop. The “Patina” will also aid to
prevent staining to a lesser degree.

4.Q.WHAT IS THE BEST STONE TO USE IN MY HOME?

A.It is really a matter of choice and the look you want to achieve. These
are questions to ask yourself when making your decision: Is it
beautiful to you? Do you love it? Could you live with it for years?
The best advice that I can ever give to anyone choosing stone is: Go
with what you are drawn to from the beginning. First, because you
will only spend a lot of time and become confused when laboring over
the “right” decision by looking at many different stones and colors;
secondly, you will probably not be happy with your selection if you
have to settle on something else. Reviewing the following most used
stone types will help when you are ready to make your choice.

GRANITES – Granites usually have a “spattered” or “swirled”
grain and can contain many colors (minerals). Generally, granites
have a polished finished and have a “busy” look, but to keep up
with current trends, more manufacturers are producing honed
(smooth & unpolished) and flamed (rough textured) surfaces.
Granites may be purchased in slab and dimensional tile form and
can be used in almost any application. It has become ever popular
as it is being used frequently in newly built tract housing,
apartment/condominium complexes and commercial buildings.
Granites are imported from many countries and have just as many
colors and sizes to choose from. A note in using polished granite is
to know that it can be slippery to walk on until a patina builds on
it. As with any other commodity, stone is also graded for quality
standards. Be wary if it is extremely inexpensive…(less than $7.00
per square foot unless you are buying a large quantity.) The price
ranges in granites can be anywhere in between $8.00 to $90.00 per
square foot, depending on the color, rarity and where the stone
comes from. The “blue” stones, containing minerals/gems such as
sodalite are usually in the higher priced ranges.

LIMESTONES – There are many types of limestone available and
vary to many degrees, depending upon where it comes from.
Unpopular to belief, limestone is also a perfectly suitable stone to
use in all areas of your home. Most limestones have softer earth
tone colors; may contain a “swirl” veining movement throughout;
can contain fossils; or may have a light speckled grain.
Limestones, just like granite or any other natural stone can stain,
etch or get scratched, but again, you should not use natural stone
if this will bother you. Limestone also is widely available in
dimensional tile and slab form. This stone is used most frequently
in higher-end homes, architectural designs and commercial
applications as it is easy to work with, the colors are muted
compared to granites, it is available in as many finishes and
textures as granite and it is still relatively new to the market. It is
still considered to be a “custom” choice, as it has not reached the
overuse level of granite. Some limestones from countries such as
France and Portugal can be somewhat porous but are perfect for
flooring, backsplashes, fireplace surrounds and outdoor uses.
Limestone from countries such as the US and Israel (Jerusalem
Stone) are generally heavier and usually as dense as granite, which
makes it suitable for almost every application.

SLATES – Slate used to be used mainly for chalkboard, billiard
tables, science lab areas and roof tiles. However, in recent years it
has become more popular for residential use in most applications,
with the exception of fabricated counter tops. Slate tiles are
generally rough in surface texture, with the exception of the
tumbled version. Most slates are available in a wide variety of
sizes in dimensional tiles; a few in slab form and most can be
gotten in crates of random pieces like flagstone. It is a perfect
stone for water areas such as showers & spas, patio/driveway
areas, pool surrounds and roofing applications. Most slates
contain a huge variation of color, even within the same lot and
some will even look to have been stained from spills of red wine,
which is not the case. This is caused from earth minerals such as
iron and only adds to the beauty of the stone. Slate holds onto heat
well, which is another reason besides being fire proof; it is widely
used as roofing material. (Use light colors in outdoor areas where
you may be walking barefoot!) Since slates have a softer property,
be aware that it can shale off the surface more easily. This will not
harm it per se, but may cause you concern if you are not aware
that it happens. One of the difficulties of slate is that it is varied in
thickness. Because of the shale properties, it is very difficult to cut
evenly. Generally, manufacturers will cut them with a “gauged”
thickness or “sawn back” treatment, leaving one side smoother.
Because of the varied thickness between each piece of tile, specific
sized installations may be more of a challenge, so expect your
installer costs to be a bit higher. Slate itself is generally a less
costlier stone. Expect anywhere from $4.00 - $8.00 per square foot,
dependent upon the grade and country of origin. Again, beware of
any extremely inexpensive prices and be sure to check the quality
of the slate to be sure that it has not been filled with dyes. Test by
holding a piece under running water for a few minutes and also by
putting a few tablespoons of vinegar or lemon juice on it and
wiping off. If any color comes off, return it immediately! Just a
note: I only recommend using any acidic solution on stone in this
instance for testing purposes only.

MARBLE – Most people are familiar with marble in many uses.
From Greek statues to Roman baths, marble has been used for
centuries in just about every possible application, both interior
and exterior. Marble has the same general properties of limestone
and can stain, etch or scratch, but it only becomes more beautiful
over time and use. It is readily available in just about every color,
size, finish and texture known to man. Most marbles have a
veining of a mineral throughout them and are generally thought to
be from Italy, but it in actually it is quarried from all over the
world. Tumbled marble has become extremely popular in the
United States in the last few years for backsplash, flooring and
shower areas. Prices range from $6.00 - $30.00 per square foot,
again dependent upon the rarity, color and country of origin. A
couple of drawbacks to marble to be aware of is: 1. Green marbles
containing serpentine need to be installed in water areas with
specific setting guidelines that your installer should know of as
water can warp and break apart green marbles; 2. Polished
marble can be slippery to walk upon until a patina has built up on
the surface.

TRAVERTINE – Travertine is marble, except it is filled with
“holes.” To understand what causes the holes, think of it this
way…wherever a river or stream was prior to the marble being
quarried is where you will find travertine. Because of the holes,
people can be scared off because travertine is generally thought to
be more porous and not suitable for residential use. This is not the
case, as all of those holes become filled in with grout during
installation, giving it a very unique look. The same travertine can
be used in two separate areas but appear another way just by
using two different grout colors! Travertine can be purchased
with the holes pre-filled, but in my experience with it, I don’t
recommend it. In general, the epoxy fill that is used has a color to
it that does not look natural to the stone and it has a tendency to
come out after a short amount of time in high traffic areas. Expect
to pay anywhere from $5.00 – $15.00 per square foot.

5.Q.IS STONE MORE DIFFICULT OR COSTLY TO INSTALL THAN CERAMIC TILE?

A.On the whole, it is not more difficult to install. There are exceptions
of course such as the difficulties with thickness gauges, which takes
more time in lying out and whether a complex pattern is being used.
As for cost it is generally not more expensive except for time spent on
laying out patterns and the thickness gauging again, at least for the
tile contractors I have worked on projects with. The setting supplies
and procedures are the same, but stone is heavier to work with. I
suggest talking it over with your installer and also taking the time to
look at previous jobs he or she has installed if possible. I will be
giving tips on selecting a tile contractor/installer in my next article.

6.Q.CAN A STONE DESIGN BE USED OR MIXED WITH OTHER KINDS OF MATERIALS?

A.Absolutely! The possibilities are endless. You can incorporate stone
with ceramic, porcelain, glass, and terracotta…anything you can
think of, even mixing different types of stones together.

7.Q.HOW DO I FIGURE THE QUANTITY THAT I WILL NEED?

A.Generally, tile and stone for a “field” area is figured by the square
foot. To figure square footage, measure the area that you will be
putting the tile with a tape measure. Examples:

1.You measure your room and it comes out to be 10-1/2 feet
wide by 15-3/4 feet long…you would calculate it by
multiplying 10.5×15.75 = 165.38. Round this number off
to the closest whole number (165). I suggest adding on a
10-15% overage to plan for cuts, breakage and a little
extra to store in case a piece needs to be replaced later in
time.

2.You measure your wall area to be covered and you get
18″ tall and 33″ long. Multiply 18×33 = 594″. Now divide
that number by 144, resulting in 4.13sf. (There are 144 sq.
inches per square foot). Again, round it off and add on
for overage.

When figuring for decorative tile or trim, it is usually by the piece
and calculated by the lineal foot.

For slabs, it is best to let your fabricator figure the quantity for you.

8.Q.WHAT SIZE GROUT JOINTS SHOULD I USE?

A.Again, this is a matter of choice and the look you prefer. Honed stone
can usually be butt jointed (tight to each other) with very little grout
showing if you want to see less grout or a grid pattern; tumbled stone
usually has a 1/8″ to 1/4″ grout joint which will show off the edges
more.

9.Q.CAN YOU HELP ME WITH DESIGNING MY STONE LAYOUT?

A.Yes, I can! I charge an hourly fee of $75 and I will need several things
from you:

1.A copy of your blueprints, including the elevations if you
have them and the area to be tiled clearly marked; or a
drawing of the area, including the dimensions and the
area to be tiled shown. Make sure to specify what
room/location it is, if it is not marked on the blueprint.

2.The style of home you have; or the look you prefer,
i.e.…rustic, contemporary, elegant, traditional…

3.Whether or not you have already chosen your stone. If
so, what did you pick and what size? If not, do you want
me to make suggestions for you? If yes, do you have a set
budget?

4.Will you want to use decorative trim pieces? If so, did you
choose one yet? What are the dimensions of a piece(s)?

About the Author

Kim has worked in the Building Industry for 19 years and has specialized in tile and stone for the last 5, with emphasis on end-user and tile contractor drawing design specifications and visualization.

For Design Assistance go to: www.decoblends.com

Have you ever thought about keeping a gardener’s diary to record what you plant and where you plant it? Keeping a diary will help you plan next year’s garden by recording which plants grew well and which ones didn’t. You can also note which colors do or don’t look good together, or which plants overwhelm one another. Keep a record of how long the sun shines in different areas of your yard so you can find plants that require the appropriate amount of sunlight. In our yard, the soil is not the same everywhere. We have made do by planting different kinds of plants in different types of soil.

We have a big patch of very sandy soil that turned out to be adequate to grow a good crop of zucchini and pumpkins last year, as long as we kept it well watered. Our tulips did really well last year. We have them scattered here and there throughout the yard, but their favorite place is in a very sandy shady spot next to the front porch. Those tulips were twice as big as the ones that got more sunshine. This year, however, we got a little warm weather in early spring and then a cold spell. The poor tulips never recovered from the cold and didn’t bloom at all! One plant that doesn’t seem to care where it is planted is our rhubarb. It has been moved from house to house several times, it has grown in different types of soil, and it has been watered inconsistently. I then cut it all off and it grows right back again! This plant seems impossible to harm.

We’re experimenting with daisies this year. I wanted to add some more color to our yard. I planted them in different places and will watch to see where they do best.

I love looking at my yard and looking at all the different plants that people have given me. Who would have thought that plants could be keepsakes. You can make notes in your diary as to who gave you what plants and what meaning they have to you. Our rhubarb plant is the same one that we had at our home when I was a child, and my mom gave me some of the chrysanthemums that were given to me and planted in her yard when my daughter was born almost twelve years ago. Walking around the yard I see flowers from my aunt, rosemary from my husband’s grandmother, and the young maple tree my daughter grew from a seed several years ago. There are many memories in our small surroundings. Planting seedlings from other people’s gardens is also a great way to save money - plants are so expensive these days. Why pay for them at the store when you can get them for free? I also buy a lot of plants at the end of the season. A lot of stores have two-for-one sales and practically give away their leftover plants. Even a half wilted annual will perk right up when you give it a little tender-loving care. It will be back good as new next year.

Your diary can be as simple as a spiral notebook or as fancy as a bound diary you can buy at the store. If you are good at drawing, you can also make sketches of your plants in your diary. If you end up living in the same place for many years, your gardening diary can be a little piece of history for your family. Your family will cherish those memories for a lifetime.

About the Author

Originally published at Suite 101. Rachel Paxton is a freelance writer and mom who is the author of What’s for Dinner?, an e-cookbook containing more than 250 quick easy dinner ideas. For recipes, tips to organize your home, home decorating, crafts, holiday hints, and more, visit Creative Homemaking at http://www.creativehomemaking.com.