Students Of Success

If there is an art to getting horses to load in a trailer, then this it.

The first thing that must happen is communication between the horse and his handler. The horse must understand what is required of him and the handler must make it easy to understand.

Thus, you must start by getting the horse to move forward in either direction. After a direction is established then get him moving in the opposite direction. A round pen is excellent for this purpose.

When the horse gets good at moving both directions then it’s time to hook a lead rope to his halter and lunge him left and right. For instance, when you point left, the horse must know to go to your left. And vice versa for going right.

The final result should look like this. You’re holding the lead rope while facing your horse. As you hold the lead rope in your right hand, you hook the middle of the lead rope with your left thumb. Lift it up and point to the left.

Your horse, now knowing what to do, immediately goes to your left. After a circle or two you switch hands and get the horse to go to your right.

When he gets good at that, then send (lunge) him through gate openings, barn door openings, etc. Also, lunge him in smaller spaces to help him deal with his natural claustrophobia. You can do this by lunging him between you and a fence. As he goes back and forth make the space between you and the fence smaller. Be careful not to get stepped on.

Now that he’s good at that, you take him by the trailer. You open the door and let him sniff it. Then you step back and face your horse. You lunge him left and right in front of the trailer while he passes back and forth by the opening.

After all this pointing and sending your horse now knows what you want. You have communicated to him when you point left that he is to move left and so on.

The next step is to face him to the trailer. With his head facing into the trailer and you standing on his left side you then send (point) him into the trailer.

Some horses will simply jump right in the trailer where others may take more work.

If your horse doesn’t go in after pointing and coaxing then take him away from the trailer and make him work. Now you want to convey the idea that being in the trailer means he can relax. Being outside the trailer means he has to work hard. Eventually, he’ll catch on.

Once you have him in the trailer, pet him and let him relax. Talk to him. Let him know how good he did.

Obviously, getting a horse to load in a trailer isn’t rocket science. But you can do it. It takes patience and work.

About the Author

Andy Curry is a nationally known horse trainer and author
of several best selling horse training and horse care books.
For information visit his website at www.horsetrainingandtips.com.
He is also the leading expert on Jesse Beery’s horse training
methods which can be seen at www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beerya.

A shih tzu mother’s instinct to nurture begins with her first
shih tzu puppy delivery. Praise your shih tzu mother through
labor and delivery. Try not to express disgust, fear or
overexcitement. A breeder’s expressions and emotions can have a
deleterious effect on the shih tzu mother’s attitude. If you
fail to offer your shih tzu mother adequate emotional support,
she could, in the rarer cases, refuse care of her litter.

The first thing seen in a normal birth is a partial emergence of
a grayish blue (slimy-looking) sac from the shih tzu’s vulva.
However, I have seen many normal shih tzu deliveries in which
this sac does not appear. If the sac is present, do not be
alarmed, and do not try to burst the sac. This sac contains the
first shih tzu puppy. Usually the shih tzu is able to deliver
the sac containing the shih tzu puppy onto the whelping box
floor by her second contracture or third strong contraction.
Remain calm. Your attitude right now can prove crucial to the
shih tzu mother’s acceptance and care of her offspring. Usually,
but not always the shih tzu will deliver the placenta
(afterbirth) directly after each shih tzu puppy. Some shih tzu
will turn to eat the placenta first, then go on to eat the sac,
tearing it from around the shih tzu puppy’s face and body. As
the shih tzu ingest all evidence of a fresh birth, she will
shake the new whelp still attached to the placenta by its
umbilical cord.

Three events are taking place. First, instinct demands that all
strongly-scented bloody evidence of a fresh birth be destroyed.
In the wild, a fresh birth would attract predators to a whelping
den’s site. Instinct prepares the shih tzu mother to quickly get
rid of all evidence of the fresh birth. Second, the placenta
contains precise nutrients vital to the shih tzu mother that
help to nourish her during a time when her strength is less than
optimal. Included in these nutrients are those assisting the
whelping shih tzu to maintain strong contractures. Some breeders
will contend the shih tzu should not eat the placenta or at
least not all of them. I believe in allowing instinct to rule
and I allow my shih tzu mothers to eat all the evidence of a
fresh birth. If timing is right, I may remove one placenta.
Thirdly, during these moments a shih tzu mother ingests the sac
and afterbirth, she stimulates the shih tzu puppy to an
independent life, toward breathing on its own. When the entire
process is left to the shih tzu mother and assuming the shih tzu
mother is abiding by her natural instinct, I have seen the
puppies seem to become lively and thrive much better than if I
have to help in the process. Not all shih tzu mothers do what
they are suppose to do, and in these cases, a breeder must act
quickly to save the newly whelped shih tzu puppy.

If the shih tzu mother is tending to the placenta first, you
must act quickly and manually tear the sac from the shih tzu
puppy’s head. Do not remove the shih tzu puppy from its
proximity to the shih tzu mother. Once the sac is torn
especially away from the shih tzu puppy’s face, carefully pick
the shih tzu puppy up, holding it a few inches off the whelping
box floor to make it easier for the shih tzu mother to crush and
sever the cord. This action provides a clotting of blood coming
from the cord and ties off the cord naturally. Allow the shih
tzu mother to grind and gnaw the umbilical cord. The
grinding-crunching sound heard is that of the shih tzu mother
severing the cord from the placenta. If the shih tzu mother
refuses to sever the cord within a few minutes of birthing a
shih tzu puppy, clamp the cord with sterilized hemostats
approximately two inches from the shih tzu puppy’s abdomen, and
cut the cord with sterilized surgical scissors. Dot blood
clotting powder on the cord to stop the bleeding (this is the
same powder that is used to stop bleeding when clipping
toenails). In some cases, you might need to apply some Neosporin
Ointment to prevent infection around the umbilical cord.

First pet stores began selling clothes for pets. Then kennels upgraded from a wire cage to four-star hotels for man’s best friend. Now you can even buy insurance for your four-legged friend. Everything from health insurance to third party insurance for the family pet is getting to be big business in the animal world.

Pet owners can find insurance for a myriad of pet related problems. For example, assistance in finding Fido if he goes missing; third party insurance in case Rex gets a little perturbed and bites the neighborhood bully; life insurance. All are valid reasons to consider buying pet insurance. But like insurance for your family, you should research the different insurance companies thoroughly before plunking down your hard earned money. So how do you decide what insurance company to go with and what type of insurance you are likely to need? Easy…know your pet.

Ask yourself these questions before you begin your research. What physical ailments is your pet’s natural enemy? For example, German Shepards are prone to hip displasia as they get older so a good health plan is something you would want to consider.

What percentage of the dog bites reported to the police are instigated by your breed? For instance, Pit Bulls are responsible for a good percentage of dog bites in the United States, though Rottweilers and German Shepards come in a close second. If you own one of these breeds, no matter how docile and kind you believe your pet to be, third-party insurance would be a good idea.

Finally, will your dog be a show dog, watchdog, breeder or family pet? If he or she is a show dog, life insurance may be good idea. Since Fido is helping to put food on the table, life insurance would help cover those losses.

Once you have the answers to these questions, begin your research. Go to any search engine on the Internet, type in “pet insurance” and you will be whisked away to an unlimited number of websites that sell what you are looking for. But like insurance for your family, some of the websites can be confusing. Ask your vet what company has given him the least amount of problems. Ask other owners of your breed what insurance company they use.

There are so many insurance companies out there that offer a wide variety of insurance plans at a low price (some companies offer full coverage for as little as $9 a month) that you are likely to sign up for something you do not need. So the answer to the insurance question when buying a new pet is unfortunately the same as every other pet-related question…Research, Research, Research. Though in my personal opinion, unlike clothes for your darling Tinkerbelle (which I think is more embarrassing for the owner than it is for the animal), or over priced training (which you can do yourself if you are willing to put in the time) pet insurance is a necessary expense. If you don’t believe me, wait until the bill comes due.

About the Author

You may use this article on your site as long as the 2 URL’s are hyperlinked.

Allen Shaw is a successful author who provides information on pet insurance and dogs.

An essential to your dog’s health is his/her regular annual checkup with the vet. Whether or not you choose to have your dog vaccinated* at this time, the annual chekup is also an excellent opportunity for a thorough physical examination to be carried out, and a time to discuss any minor problems or issues which you feel may be affecting your dog’s health or wellbeing. This is a time when your vet may pick up inherited diseases and the like (when your dog is young) so they can be treated early, or just kept an eye on. And as your dog gets older, the vet may find the early signs of more sinister illnesses.

I recently took my dogs for their annual checkup, and for the first time alarms were raised about matters of significant concern - it was thought that Kara might have early stages of lymphoma (cancer) - which, fortunately, tests then proved to be not the case. And Jet apparently has something akin to the early stages of cataracts in humans in her eyes, and according to the vet, Jet is likely to go progressively blind over the next several years. At least knowing this in advance gives me the opportunity to watch for any developing signs and, if and when necessary, adapt her outings and home environment to take into account any sight loss, and most importantly, it has made me realise that vitamin and mineral supplementation in dogs is actually a very wise idea.

Worming and “de-flea-ing” your dog are the commonest forms of health measures which you probably undertake yourself for your dog. Fleas infest almost every dog at some time. Sometimes a lot of the time. Dogs which socialise with other dogs outside the home tend to become infested the most often. Fleas can carry disease and parasites, including tapeworm.

But fleas are extremely irritating for your dog. They often cause intense itching, which in turn can cause your dog to damage his/her skin by vigorous scratching. Some dogs are allergic to flea bites. Even after the fleas have been doused with flea poison and killed, the cycle of itch, scratch, itch, scratch, can remain.

My Rottweiler has been terribly affected two or three times now by this self-perpetuating cycle caused by her allergy to flea bites. Most of the skin damage has been caused by Kara incessantly scratching and injuring herself.

A dog with an infestation of fleas is neither a healthy nor a happy dog. So at the first sign of a flea, it’s important to treat your dog for this very common problem. And those pesky fleas don’t always readily show themselves. So if your dog is scratching more than usual, the first thing to do is a thorough search through your dog’s coat. If you sight even one flea, treat your dog immediately. Some people treat routinely just because it’s flea season, and still others actually treat throughout the year. And of course, it goes without saying that if you have more than one animal, you must treat them all at the same time.

This way, you’ll ensure that your dog is as healthy and happy as can be!

* There are natural alternatives to vaccinations, and signficant controversy as to whether vaccinations are necessary to desirable. For further information, subscribe to the Healthy Happy Dogs newsletter.

(c) 2004, Brigitte Smith, Healthy Happy Dogs

About The Author

Brigitte Smith is a dog lover with a special interest in natural health for dogs. For your free special dog health report, as well as weekly tips, information, strategies and resources for a healthier happier dog, go to http://www.HealthyHappyDogs.com and submit your name and email address.

npodsystems@yahoo.com

While reams have been written and expounded on training secrets and the psychology of the dog one often tends to forget that the “mason” is the one who lays the bricks and makes the building strong. In this case it is the “attitude” of the trainer. Have you wondered why some trainers have “a touch” while others just get by? Well it is because they are in complete synchrony with the dog.

# So, to be a good and successful trainer, you will need to develop your skills in a holistic/rounded manner — knowledge, patience, affinity for your dog, enthusiasm, a learning zeal, and more should all be coalesced in a productive way.

# To be a trainer who produces a “top” dog you must instinctively know what motivates your dog. What is it that can be tapped to make him a “team” player?

# Your dog may take to some learning like a duck to water and yet turn its back on certain things — here your skills come to the fore, you will need to make the “distasteful” attractive and enjoyable. You will need to gauge your dog’s mood and change the training approach appropriately.

# Another important and often forgotten aspect is that you must work at a pace that the dog is comfortable with – for each lesson you must revise until the little dog has learnt thoroughly. Vary the order of the commands so that the dog has to “pay attention” and think – he must not mechanically execute commands.

Each step must be taken with steadfastness.

# It is important, for you to remain calm and to motivate the dog at the right moment. Play your voice, whistles, and hand signals in a way that the dog will recognize what you are about to say. dogs are so attuned to their trainer/owner that they will, after a while pre-empt your commands. The little dog will read your mind clearly.

# Develop your extra sensory perceptions to recognize the dog’s moods—if the dog is willing to learn, then you must take the day’s learning all the way. If he seems distracted — just play with him and execute a few simple lessons. If the dog is listless declare an impromptu holiday – spend the lesson time cuddling your pet, giving him a relaxing massage or take him for a drive.

# Never try and train if, you yourself are feeling low, irritable, or off color—it does not achieve anything. Take a day or few days off — the world will not come to an end or stop.

Never train your dog when:

·You are unwell.
·You are angry, negative, or upset.
·You are low on patience or out of energy.
·When the mind is distracted or there is too much traffic in the training area.
·When you are not confident on how to execute a certain lesson – postpone until you have time to clarify with your trainer or school.

Like all first class trainers you too should adopt the four Cs –Calmness, Consistency, Communication, and Concentration. To raise a prince you need to be a seer.

We Must Learn Too

To be successful teachers we too must learn –often it is our ignorance that leads to disasters. We must, constantly update our knowledge and learn better and more innovative ways to communicate with our canine friends.

Some tried and tested methods are:

A.Leash handling: The ideal way is to begin with your arms hanging loosely down with the palms facing inwards. The loop of the leash should be placed over the right thumb with the loose end crossing the palm. The next step is to fold the leash like an accordion to a manageable length. The loose end should emerge from under the little finger. Then the leash must pass through the loop made by the thumb and index finger of the left hand and across the palm. Hold the leash loosely in your left hand; from here to your dog’s collar the leash should have enough length to form a “j” In popular parlance this is referred to as the “control-start” position. This permits better control of the dog. The right hand should always be stationary while the left hand makes all the necessary corrections.

B.Footwork: At all times footwork is your biggest aid in training. While executing turns if you do not place your feet properly you could trip the dog and cause a disturbance in the synchronization. Moving quickly also causes forging or lagging. Footwork should be consistent and the foot closest to your dog should lead. Pace is crucial don’t race or pick up-tempo sometimes and saunter at other times. It is beneficial to place your feet in a “T” position whilst turning

C.Timing and use of body language: It is essential to move together. If you say heel and start walking even before the word leaves your lips then you are making it difficult for your dog to follow your commands. You must pause for a second after giving the command –this gives enough time for the dog to respond accurately. In order to establish a certain pattern, it is advisable to incorporate delays of 1-5 seconds before responding. Since dogs are extremely receptive animals they can respond very quickly to body language. It is for them an inherited trait. The pet will recognize your smile as a welcoming gesture. Similarly, towering or leaning over is considered to be threatening. Just raising your hand is enough to convey –a threat/displeasure. So it is essential for you to master body language. Similarly, hand signals help the dog perform many tasks.

Whether you are a first time dog owner or a seasoned veteran, your learning never stops as far as it comes to training your dog. Each and every dog presents different training challenges, and the more equipped you are to handle these training issues the more likely you are to prevent any permanent and long term future behavioral problems.

If you are serious about your dog, and want the very best for her/him, then you owe it to your best friend to get a copy of this FREE Dog Training Mini-Course. You can still get it from here:

http://www.dogtrainingmastery.com/Free_Dog_Training/dog-obedience-training.htm

About the Author

Ray Coleiro is the author of the popular book “Dog Training Mastery - An Owner’s Manual!” To learn more about his proven Dog Training methods and life’s work, you can visit
http://www.dogtrainingmastery.com/Dog_Training/dog-training.htm
Note: The author grants permission to you to re-print, pulish or broadcast this article so long as it is un-altered and not edited in any way, and that all links remain present and active.

When you get a puppy, one of the first things that you
need to do is make an appointment with the vet to get
your new family member his or her vaccinations. Along
with any recommended shots, your cuddly canine will
probably get a dose of a de-worming formula to rid
them of any internal parasites.

Hookworms

Some parasites can be very dangerous to your dog,
especially to puppies. For instance, a hookworm (about
1/8″ in length) will adhere itself to the small intestine
and begin to suck the blood from your pet. It can cause
severe anemia, followed by circulatory collapse, severe
diarrhea, hemorrhaging, shock and finally death.

Puppies may receive hookworms through the mother’s
placenta during the gestation period or through the
mother’s milk when nursing. This is why it is very
important that new puppies receive a de-worming formula.

These parasites can also enter an adult dog quite
easily when your pet walks over soil that contains
any contaminated feces from other animals. In turn,
your dog then licks his or her paws and ingests the
hookworm larvae. Even without the paw licking the
larvae can burrow through the skin and into the dog.
Once inside, the larvae migrate to the small intestine
where they grow into adult hookworms, usually within
14 days.

A female hookworm will begin to lay eggs… 20,000 of
them per day! As you can see, it is vitally important
to have your favorite canine de-wormed should they
become infested with hookworms. If you see symptoms
such as diarrhea, weakness, pale gums, or weight loss,
take your canine to the veterinarian immediately for
diagnosis and treatment. Diagnosis is usually made
through a small stool sample. Treatment consists of
an oral or injected medication which kills the adult
hookworms, but not the larvae. This treatment needs
to be repeated again in 2 to 4 weeks to kill the larvae
that have emerged as adults. In cases of severe anemia,
your dog may require a blood transfusion.

Roundworms

Roundworms are another common parasite most often found
in puppies. The worms are usually heavy-bodied and
grow to about 6″ in length.

Infection usually occurs as larvae that have lain dormant
in an adult female dog are reactivated when the female
dog becomes pregnant. The larvae begin to migrate through
the placenta to the liver of the fetus. They also will
migrate to the mammary glands of the mother, so that the
puppies can also become infected while nursing.

The time from roundworm larvae infection to the adult
stage is about 27 days. Most roundworms live about 4
months in the puppy and are usually expelled by the
natural immune system of the puppy before 6 months of
age.

So, if puppies naturally expel these parasites, how do
adult dogs end up with them? The adult dog ingests them
by eating some food supply that contain the larvae.

Tapeworms

Another very common worm is the tapeworm. This worm
lives in the intestines of both dogs and cats. The worm
is transmitted by fleas. When a dog or cat has fleas,
they will naturally ingest the tapeworm while grooming.
The tapeworm then makes its way to the intestine.

There are usually no noticeable symptoms for the most
part, although sometimes your dog may show some stomach
upsets, diarrhea or just seems somewhat lethargic. You
can often tell if your pet has tapeworms by finding
small, whitish worm segments that look like small grains
of rice under the tail of your pet or on its bedding.
Also, you dog may begin “scooting” their rear end along
the floor because of irritation. It takes approximately
three weeks from the time your dog ingests the flea
until you begin to see tapeworm segments.

Although not generally harmful to an animals health,
tapeworms are certainly something you’ll want to rid
your dog of. One of the first treatments for tapeworms
is to begin a program of flea control treatment program
for your pet and the immediate environment of your house
and yard.

About the Author

Rose Smith is the author and owner of Caring For Canines,
a web site that provides information on natural dog health
care. Please visit us at: http://www.caringforcanines.com

Has this ever happened to you? Your cat’s peeing outside the litter box, and you’re desperately trying to clean up after your cat, wondering if you’re actually doing anything to stop it from happening in the first place!

Well, if you’re like me, you probably want some quick solutions to the problem, or at least a list of checkpoints that you know you must, like a detective on a trail, work through, to get the litter box behavior problem under control.

By the time you finish this article, you will have learnt the 7 most important steps you must know, when it comes to this problem of the cat peeing outside the litter box.

Firstly, let’s have a look at the reasons why this happens. The reasons for peeing outside the litter box are:

1. A medical problem.

2. The cat that has never been properly house trained to use the litter box in the first place.

3. Problems with the litter tray itself.

4. An unpleasant event that occurred while the cat was at the litter box.

5. A temporary physical or emotional stress, or change in the household causing the cat to urinate in an area outside the box, which is perpetuated by the urine smell reminding the cat to return to the same area over and over again.

6. Old age causing a cat to not be easily able to get to the litter box.

Now, keep these causes in mind, when checking out the 7 action steps:

1. If there’s a change in toilet behavior with no obvious cause, it may be caused by illnesses such as urinary tract infections, blocked anal glands, worms and parasites, diabetes and tumors. These illnesses may have no other obvious signs, apart from this urination problem. So you must consider a visit to the vet. In other cases you may see symptoms such as lethargy, blood in the urine, diarrhea, or constant licking in the anal area. If you see this, then your first stop is the vet!

2. Look at the litter box itself. Ensure you’re cleaning out the waste once or twice a day, and changing the litter every 3-4 days for non-clumping litter (2-3 weeks for clumping litter). Clean the tray with hot water and mild detergent, without any strong odors such as citrus or ammonia, which will repel the cat from the box. If you have multiple cats, remember - the number of trays should equal number of cats, plus one or two. If you’ve changed brands of litter, this may have caused the problem as many cats dislike this change, especially to scented litter. Return to the older litter. If you want to change, introduce unscented litter gradually by mixing the old with the new over 2 weeks. And ensure that the location of the box is acceptable: no loud noises, has some privacy, and is not in view of other cats.

3. Consider adding in 1 more litter box to another suitable private location of the house. This is because sometimes it’s not the litter box that’s the problem, but a negative experience there. For example, if your kids played with the cat while she was on the litter box, or if the cat had pain when urinating, such as during a urine infection, after having kittens, or had a procedure done on the bladder or urethra at the vet, then the cat would associate pain with that litter box. Even if the pain is gone, the association and is still there.

4. Thoroughly clean the area that has been peed on. This is important because no matter what the cause, the fact that the urine remains on the bed, carpet, or sofa is a reminder for the cat to return to pee there. The cat’s sense of smell is more acute than ours, so ensure you clean with a solution such as Brampton’s Simple Solution. If you have remaining urine smell together with a bad association at the box, then you have 2 forces causing the problem to continue. So get rid of both!

5. Next, if possible, deny the cat access to the area that is peed on, especially if it’s an area that is repeatedly used. Many people forget to do this, and their problem is prolonged. By stopping access, the cycle of repeated urination is stopped. Will the cat pee somewhere else? Possible, though less likely if you provide a second litter box, show him where it is a few times, and also do the step 7 below.

6. If you can’t stop the cat from accessing the area, make the area less attractive for peeing instead. You can do this by either placing a scent, or, by placing a bowl of dried cat food there. If using a scent, try citrus or eucalyptus. If using dried food, which often works better, ensure that you top up the food bowl during the day. Either way, once you have success, continue for another 1-2 weeks to ensure it stays that way.

7. If you’re at home when the cat is, then you have this step up your sleeve as well: the startle technique. Only do this method if you actually catch the cat about to urinate because if you do it at any other time, that cat will not be able to associate that urinating in the area with the unpleasant startle. Startle the cat with a loud “No!” or clap of the hands. Wait 5 minutes, then bring the cat to the litter tray, and if she toilets at the tray, reward her with praise and a food treat. As long as the length and enjoyment of the reward if far greater than the startle, this will be unlikely to cause stress. Use this method carefully as some cats may experience stress with it. Make sure that the cat seems relaxed after the food treat, and that it’s actually improving the situation.

If you follow the above steps, most problems of peeing outside the litter box will be solved within days or gradually improve over 1-2 weeks.

Remember in all cases, you’ll be even more effective if you reduce stress at the same time. This means more play time and attention.

In conclusion, it does take some effort and detective work to see what has caused the litter box behavior problem in the first place. And you now know how to apply 7 essential steps to help you solve this issue, as quickly and effectively as possible.

If you’d like to learn more advanced tips on solving your cat’s litter box behavior problem, go to the website described in the resource box below.

Cassandra Mandello helps you to go from cat novice, to successfully training your cat in no time. To learn more valuable cat training techniques, visit this site to learn more tips on understanding cat behavior, and lots more!

The use of transdermal patches within human medicine is very popular for people who may want to quit smoking, relieve pain and even to replace hormones. Can these drug patches work for our pets?

Transdermal drugs for animals are very similar to those used for humans. In some cases like fentanyl, the pain killer, it is identical. The drug is administered through the patch which is applied to a saved area of your pets skin, thus enabling the drug to reach the bloodstream across the skin (transdermally). Not all drugs used transdermally are available in patch form, some drugs are compounded by pharmacists into a gel which is applied to your pets skin, usually the undersied of the ear flap. The fentanyl patch, use mainly in humans, has been used on dogs, cats and horses in the use of pain control management.

In general drugs which are given transdermally enter the bloodstream much slower than using other routes, such as orally or by injection, therefore using patches would not work for drugs that are needed immediately. These drugs tend only to be used when the drug is not critical to the animals immediat survival. Transdermally used drugs can take up to 24 hours to begin working and are therefore only used for non life threatening conditions such as feline hyperthyroidism, this can be monitored by measuring thyroid hormone levels and ensuring the transdermal drug is working. This method of delivery can iliminate the need for daily pills for your pets. If you are the owner of a hyperthyroid cat using ointment on its ear once or twice a day, it will save your having to force feed your cat with pill and keep your human animal bond in tact!

If your dog had to undergo surgery for example, veterinarians may use a fentanly patch before and after surgery to help reduce the pain. This in turn reduces the number of injectable drugs and anesthesia required. Your dog may then be able to return home sooner rather than having to stay in hospital and therefore be more comfortable recovering at home. Another advantage of transdermal drugs is that they bypass the gastrointestinal system and will need less processing by the liver.

About the Author

If you have a pet related web site and you wish to reproduce the above article you are welcome to do so, provided the article is reproduced in its entirety, including this live link to: 1 Flea Control

Brush your dog often .

Brushing will stimulate oils in your pets skin & keep it moist & healthy. Brushing will prevent matting of your dogs coat. Brushing is a great way to show your dog attention. Brushing eliminates dead hair in the coat that contributes to shedding.

Maintain the length of your dogs nails.

You can walk your dog often to wear down nails. Clip your dogs nails on a regular basis. If they are cut too short they can bleed & sting. Groomers usually charge a little less than veterinarians to cut nails. If you believe your dog will be aggressive about getting their nails cut it is best to take them to the veterinarian.

Bathe your dog regularly.

Buy dog shampoos & conditioners from pet stores. Do not use flea & tick shampoos unless your pet needs them, they can dry out your pets skin. Be sure to rinse your dog thoroughly, leaving soap on skin can cause problems. Bathing a dog with knots & mats will worsen them, be sure to eliminate these before or immediately after the bath.

When drying your dog use low heat. Dogs are sensitive to burning, keep this in mind while adjusting water temperature. Bathing your dog will cut down on chances of infestations of fleas & ticks. Place cotton in your dogs ears before bathing. Often water in the ears can lead to ear infections. By washing away dead hair, regular bathing reduces shedding of your dogs coat.

Keep your dogs ears clean

Do this with dog ear cleaner bought from any pet store. Put a small amount of ear cleaner on a cotton ball and swab outer surface of the inner ear. Keeping your dogs ears clean & dry will reduce chance of ear infections & ear mites. You can also buy ear wipes from any pet store to keep your dogs ears clean.

Dog groomers & veterinarians can also clean your pets ears for you. Many longhaired dogs grow hair in their ears that needs to be pulled to prevent ear infections. This hair can be gently pulled out with hemostats. Most people leave this to their groomer or vet.

About The Author

By Rose Lenk Find more dog and puppy articles, collars and information at her website Dog Collar Direct http://www.DogCollarDirect.com.

“A coward dies a thousand deaths; a brave man dies but once.” Our cat Der Doc proved that this applies to cats as well.

Caution was the watchword in Der Doc’s life. He was a grey cat, striped like a tiger but decidedly without the tiger’s courage. Daddy said, “He’s the original scaredy-cat.”

Der Doc had the run of our farm in the Bitterroot Valley of Montana, and the farm had multitudes of opportunities for a diligent cat. The chief opportunities lay with barn mice during the winter and field mice in the summer. Der Doc regularly partook of these opportunities. Cautiously, of course.

How ironic it was that his most searing experience took place when he was cautiously minding his own business. His business being a field mouse in our hayfield, as Daddy drove the John Deere tractor into the field and began mowing the alfalfa.

We children were never allowed in the field when Daddy was mowing hay, because the sickle on the mower extended out eight feet from the tractor. You couldn’t see that sickle coming, as the uncut alfalfa in front of it hid it. “Cut your little feeties right off, and you’d never know what hit you!” said Daddy. He would have given Der Doc the same warning if Der Doc had understood English. For on that sad day the uncut alfalfa hid Der Doc as well as the sickle.

Fortunately the worst did not happen. Der Doc did not have his little feeties cut right off, but he did lose the last two inches of his tail as he belatedly fled.

Bleeding profusely, Der Doc ran to the safest place he knew, the inside of our house. Everyone was tremendously sympathetic. My little brother asked, “Is it all right to pray for a cat?” Learning that it was, he prayed fervently. Daddy probably did too. He felt terrible about what happened.

I was away at camp that week, but when Der Doc decided my bed with its snowy white bedspread was the best place to convalesce, everyone was sure I would want him to sleep there, so he did.

I came home to a bloody bedspread and a traumatized cat. For the rest of his life, Der Doc felt that only vast distance could protect him from a John Deere tractor. As soon as he heard the distinctive put-put-put of its engine, he put not one but several fields between him and the tractor and did not return until the tractor was through with its day’s work.

About the Author

Enjoy our cat mystery sleuth and find gifts and stories for cat lovers, at Janette Blackwell’s Cats and Flowers, http://catsandflowers.com — or visit her at Food and Fiction, http://foodandfiction.com/Entrance.html